When I started looking into finishing my basement, I called five different contractors. The lowest bid? “At least $100,000.” For under 1,000 square feet of living space, that number floored me. After talking with neighbors about what they did and how much they spent, I reluctantly decided to manage the project myself.

Nearly a year and countless headaches later, I hope this write-up helps someone else avoid some of the pain points I experienced. The steps below are in the order you should complete them in, but because many tasks overlap, you'll often be working on several tasks at once.

An obvious first step, but more involved than you might think.

I used the MagicPlan app to build the floor plan with exact measurements. When measuring, you don’t need to account for studs or drywall thickness yet. Just measure wall-to-wall. The app also calculates square footage, which helps with permit applications.

Start by understanding how your existing plumbing affects the layout. For example, I initially wanted a wet bar far from the sewage line. That would’ve required breaking concrete or ensuring enough drop angle for drainage. Instead, I moved it closer to the drain.

Cabinet Planning:

You don’t need to buy cabinets yet, but do plan their dimensions. This impacts room sizes and spacing. For example, I considered cabinet width, but forgot to account for depth. After drywall, I realized our bathroom was too narrow — the top cabinet had to be 6 inches more narrow to account for the light switch. Lesson learned.

Door Planning:

Think about door width, swing direction, and placement. I used standard pre-hung doors from Menards. For the storage room, I chose a 36" door that swings out, giving me more usable space inside and easier access for large items.

Tip: Make sure your door rough-ins are 2 inches wider and 2.5 inches taller than the actual door. Mark these clearly on your floor plan.

Before you submit your plan for a permit, talk to a plumber. They’ll validate your layout and flag any issues. Mine pointed out that my wet bar placement required a line to be run along the ceiling beam. I need to account for that in my framing so they had the space to put the line. The rough-in for a bathroom shower also needed to be changed to fit a tub, which required cutting concrete — something to address before permits.

Once your plan is plumber-approved, apply for a building permit. I completed the application online, attached the plan, then visited the city office. After paying the fee, the permit was mailed to me. Be sure to display it publicly. I used blue painter’s tape to put it in a window facing the street.

Before framing, get HVAC work done. You want to frame around HVAC ducts, instead of squeezing those ducts between studs.

Highly recommended: Add a separate zone for the basement. Everyone I talked to that didn’t, regretted it. Their basements were either freezing or stuffy. We added a zone controlled by a Google Nest, and it’s been great.

Your HVAC contractor should know local building codes — how many vents you need and where they should go. I added extra vents in the living room and storage space for better comfort.

Lighting vs. Ductwork: Plan lighting before HVAC is installed. I didn’t, and once the ducts were in, my ideal spots for canned lights were blocked. I had to settle for recessed LEDs. Not a huge deal, but something to keep in mind.

I hired this out. I gave my framer my floor plan, and they were able to build it out based on those dimensions. Ideally, you’ll want to be present while they’re framing so you can ensure everything is lining up the way you envisioned. Once the walls are up, making changes gets a lot harder, so take the time to double-check the skeleton of the space while it’s still in progress. Things like wall angles, door rough-ins, and overall layout need to be spot on now to avoid headaches later.

Ordering lumber: Make sure your supplier stores wood indoors. My neighbor ordered lumber from Menards, where it was stored outside and my neighbor’s walls are starting to warp. I ordered from Home Depot, which stores their lumber indoors. Standard delivery will drop it at your driveway. If you want it closer to your basement door, you can either pay the upcharge or tip the delivery driver directly, which is often cheaper. Alternatively, rally some friends to help move it where you need it.

While Framing:

Remember, floor plans are approximate. Foundation walls aren’t always 90°, but framing will be. This can create gaps. Communicate with your framer, especially if your foundation walls are crooked. Mine weren’t straight and my framer didn’t notice. Now I have a slightly lopsided wall.

Tip: Nail pieces of lumber in between studs (called “blocking”) to hang pictures, TVs, towel racks, etc.

After Framing:

Double-check all measurements. I had a door rough-in that was too narrow, and another that was uneven. I didn’t notice until after drywall.

Tubs and Fixtures:

Order your tub/shower early. Mine was delayed and the plumber ordered it twice and both arrived cracked. After a month of waiting, we paid extra to buy a different one locally. What I should have done was gone to Home Depot myself and bought the exact tub I wanted.

What went wrong for me:

The builder that built my home installed the toilet rough-in too far from the wall. I had to pay the plumber to break the concrete and move it about two inches closer. That single adjustment cost me $1,200 I hadn’t budgeted for. It required pulling off the trim and flooring to make a correction.

Double-check rough-in measurements for all fixtures before framing.

Lighting Plan:

Hopefully, you’ve already accounted for where lights can go (see Step 2), especially if you had HVAC ducts to work around. Decide on recessed vs. canned lights.

Switch Placement:

Think through how you’ll enter and exit each room, and make sure to place switches near every main entry point. I forgot to put one outside the bedroom door, so now I have to walk all the way to the stairwell to turn off the living room lights. It’s a small oversight that becomes a daily annoyance. Walk the space mentally and add switches where they’ll be most convenient.

Outlets:

Plan for more outlets than you think you’ll need because adding them after drywall is a pain. Include spots for wall-mounted TVs (with a high outlet and conduit), appliances, vanities, and anything else that might need power later.

Special Circuits:

We installed a 20-amp outlet for a sauna heater. If you’ll need extra power anywhere, plan for it now.

Thermostat Placement:

Do you want it centrally located, or near a bedroom for convenience?

Network Cables:

I’m big on wired internet, so I ran CAT-6 cables to the living room and bedroom. It’s cheap and makes a big difference.

Painting Tip:

If you're spraying the paint, cover all electrical boxes and outlets with plastic bags. My painters didn’t, and every wire sticking out got covered in paint. That made the final electrical installs a lot more annoying.

Important: Hire a licensed electrician. Bad wiring is a fire hazard.

Window Framing:

If you’re unsure about window framing, just finish with drywall. I held off because I wanted wood trim, then changed my mind. The patch job left visible mud lines.

Paint Prep:

As mentioned above, if your contractor is spraying the paint, make sure they cover all electrical rough-ins. If not, do it yourself.

Leverage Menards' Rebate Program: If you shop at Menards, take advantage of their 11% rebate program. Keep an eye out for the "11% Rebate" signs in-store or check their website for current promotions.

Use Your Own Credit Card: Earning rewards on your purchases can add up. Consider using a credit card that offers cash back or points on home improvement purchases.

Delivery Costs Add Up: Delivery fees can accumulate quickly. If you have access to a truck or trailer, picking up materials yourself can save you money.

Delivery Upcharges: Standard delivery usually brings items to your driveway. If you need items placed closer to your basement or inside your garage, consider tipping the delivery driver directly. Often, this can be more cost-effective than paying for additional delivery services.

Finishing a basement on a budget isn’t easy, but it’s doable if you plan ahead, stay organized, and know when to bring in the pros. It took longer than I expected and the last 10% of work felt like it dragged on. But, managing it myself saved me half the cost and gave me a space I’m proud of because I did the work. Hopefully, this helps you avoid some of the mistakes I made.

- Jay